making new chassismaking new chassisbending front railsbending front railsmaking new chassismaking new chassismaking new chassisfit front subframefit front subframemaking new chassisstraighten bumper hangersFit engine/transmissionFit engine/transmissionfit original valences and firewallmatch holes from old to new valenceInstall new valencesfit steering columnfit firewallRoute stainless brake lineslayout exhaust holeoverlap holesaw for exhaust overlap holesaw for exhaust overlap holesaw for exhaust finish exhaust holeshape exhaust hole and route flexshape exhaust hole and route flexreshape muffler inletNew hangers for mufflerfinished flex and mufflerstrip everythingroute s/s brake lines to dual circuit masterroute s/s brake lines to dual circuit masterfill scallop cut in new subframefill scallop cut in new subframefill scallop cut in new subframefill scallop cut in new subframereinforce chassis axel cutoutreinforce chassis axel cutoutreinforce chassis axel cutoutreinforce chassis axel cutoutchassis after sandblast paint-prepchassis after Oshpo treatmentacid-etch prime on chassisacid-etch prime on misc partsprimer surfacer on chassis and partsprimer surfacer on chassis and partsprimer surfacer on chassis and partsprimer surfacer on chassis and partsImron on bottomImron on top
Restoration: odds-n-ends repairs
original pedal setoriginal pedal setcowl pan cracked at both endsstraightened and welded
restoration: reassembly
painting bitsfront spindles with drums installedfront suspension with brake linesteering column installedash gas tank support boardsash gas tank support boardsash gas tank support boardsash gas tank support boards. installedgas tankdifferential rebuilt by Morgan Sparesdual circuit master cylinder installeddifferential, springs and dampers installeddifferential, springs and dampers installedbrake linkageleft spindle and steering boxgrind and generally clean-up the bellhousing casting mounts and bellhousings prepmounts and bellhousings in primeengine and gearbox installedengine and gearbox installedengine and gearbox installedpainting bits (mostly 5674)painting bits original paint on steering column did not look so good when installed.priming steering column. (not in original plan for paint)gas tank installed, ’64 +4 four seaterpainting partspainted valencessteering column painted in situ (afterthought)painted valencesanti friction tape on valencesvalences installedvalences installedvalences installed
Fabricating firewall
beginning fixture by modifying one from DHC firewallfixture complete with old firewall in placeMaking patternsMaking patternslayout patterns on steelbead rollingbead rollingbead rolled panels ready for formingFormed side on fixturedressing top flangeside on fixture ready for weldingwelded sides with top flange for hem formedtest fitting topHem partially formed, test fitting toolboxhem fully formedhem fully formeddrilled holes and cutouts with parts test fittedtest fit in cartest fit in cartest fit in carform edge break with pliersprimeprimeprimepaint
Fabricating Wheel Arches
1/4″ thick ash ready to laminatebegin clampingcontinue clampingcontinue clampinglaminates clamped on formrouting stacked panels using original as templaterouted panelsDrilling stacked panelscountersinksquare laminated ashassembled archesrough cut profile with sabre sawroute lower edge and axel cut outcheck fitcamp new and old together to verify cut locationsassemble new and old to verify geometrt
make new shoes for baby…………….
cut rough stock to lengthrip and dado for plywood wheel arch panelUse dado to cut relief for fender flangefinished part with cut for lower rear stringer and screws into wheel arch panelcheck square for bottom cross stringer“shoes” installed with thickened epoxy to make water seal“shoes” installed with thickened epoxy to make water sealstrip, clean repair and Ospho seat frames and rear panel
continue with wood framing:
dress rear frame and add fastenersreweld, prime and square seat frameAluminum angle clamped to inner panel to support routing fixturefinished rabbet marking notch in rabbeted wheel archfinished wheel arch front detailstock for sills two carscheck fit new sillsjoint between wheel arch and silljoint between wheel arch and sillnew rear side railscheck fit new rear side rails original left knee blocknew right knee blockrails and knees installed
Make new connecting blocks (attachment for hood bows, two cars). Fussy little part that is usually split and rotted. Order of operations: Route curved rabbet to match wheel arch. Table saw straight edges. Band saw (thin blade) curve to match hood bracket. Route rectangular recess for the elbow rail.
check fit old to neworient pattern on stock, note grain directionmake pattern and dress smooth by sandpapering on wheel archrouting pattern clamped to stock, rabbet completemultiple rabbets on stock for four partsnail part to parallel sided scrap to safely cut short rips.one side finishedcheck fit and mark block location on wheel archpattern clamped in place to route mortise for block. Opening in bottom of slot is starting location for router.finished mortiseyou don’t have to be a hippy to appreciate a good jointfixture set-up for rail mortise.completed rail mortise.block and elbow rail completeblock and elbow rail completefairing upper rail and wheel archready for sheet metalready for sheet metal
Anything you don’t explicitly make fit, won’t fit. Verifying that things fit and making corrections as you go exponentially increases the time it takes to complete anything. However; when you are done the odds are greater, (not absolute but greater) that the result is correct.
Hood Bows Check fitting indicates that the bows are badly out of shape.
stressed pivot about to pull outnew pivot, stainless steel rivetsecond bow, should be straightmultiple bends prevent bows from nestingtransition blocks dressed to match hood frame bracketsbows nested after straightening and repairsbows erected after straightening and repairs
Fit and repair Spring Covers. The driver’s side spring cover was “modified” by a previous owner and needs to be rebuilt. Also, the factory left the inboard end of the covers open but I prefer them closed.
cover as receivedmake pattern for repair piecerepair piece fitted ready for weldcheck fit welded partfinished covers with forward ends welded closed
Check fit Cowl and Bonnets prior to finalizing the location and structure of the scuttle wood.
Continue making and fitting wood parts.
NOTE: I usually make patterns; the rest of the time I make scrap.
layout stockDress stock. 8 qtr shown, 10 qtr would be better.determine angle the firewall wood leans inrip angle on edge that attaches to the sillrough bandsaw two pieces from wide stocktwo sets of rough rockersfit rough rockers in carmark firewall angle on side of rockermark firewall angle on side of rockermark cross angle on top of rocker stockcompound set to firewall angle, blade tilt set to cross angle.check fit rocker: sill to firewall wood.check fit rocker: sill to firewall wood.bandsaw and check fit sweep of wing under rockerangles should not differ, correct angles with oxy/act torchlayout top curve of rocker
Test fit and install more stuff
layout parts on rough stockmake door hinge post patternlayout pattern for door post on stocktop angle cuts on stock for two door hinge poststwo sets of hinge posts ready for bottom rabbet.hinge post installedlocate hinge mortise using patternsimple routing guide clamped to postnice tight fit!
Rats; It is easy to convince yourself that something is “good enough” even though it isn’t. After all the wood framing was done I decided the pieces at the front that attach to the firewall needed to be replaced.
Masonite used as spline jointoriginal piecescomparing the new parts to the originalsassembledinstalledinstalledchopping mortise for top piecescheck fitting sheet metalcompleted wood frame in black,
Sheet metal
I did not take many pictures of 3585 sheet metal in-process. It was done simultaneous with 5674 and is fairly well shown in that section of the web-site.
trim piece under rockertrim piece under rockerfinished side and doorfinished rear panel with valence
Make new bonnets
I did a lot of work repairing the original bonnet halves before deciding they simply were not up to my standards. You can hide a a lot of sin with body filler and that is the standard process in a typical body shop. BUT: Bonnets bend and flex. It’s just too risky to invest in a major restoration and have bondo crack.
I’ve done a few bonnet scoops, not enough to be expert. I do know (ask me how I learned) welding them in place warps steel and leads to a lot of work hammering, shrinking, and other unpleasantness. I did not want to take these new bonnets, with all the time and expense invested thus far and risk welding. I also did not want the stuck-on look that the factory scoops have.
trying differnet pattern shapesMetal scoop with studs on flangesScoop fastened to bonnetLeading in processFinished in primer